I THEN CONTINUED SOUTH ON THE ALASKA HWY TO WATSON LAKE, THE JEWEL OF THE YUKON.
I HAVE BAD MEMORIES OF WATSON LAKE AS IT IS WHERE I BLEW UP THE ENGINE ON MY KLR AND SOLD IT FOR $700, AND TO ADD INSULT TO INJURY, THE GUY I SOLD IT TO, DID NOT EVEN REMEMBER ME.
NOT MY FAVORITE TOWN.
I DID STOP ALONG THE HWY AND FISH AGAIN IN A GORGEOUS RIVER BUT ALAS NO FISH. BUMMER.
I GOT A ROOM AND BATHED, OH SO NICE.
I WILL ALSO CHANGE THOSE WORN TIRES.
THIS OLD BEAR WAS JUST FEEDING ALONG SIDE THE ROAD AND COULD CARE LESS ABOUT ALL OF US STOPPING TO TAKE PICS.
THE CANOL ROAD ,SOUTH, RUNS FROM ROSS RIVER TO JOHNSON’S CROSSING ON THE ALASKA HWY.
THIS IS BY FAR THE MOST FUN, MOST CHALLENGING AND MOST BEAUTIFUL OF ALL THE ROADS I HAVE TRAVELED IN ALASKA AND CANADA. A PERFECT ROAD FOR A DIRT BIKE OR DAKAR.
I LEFT CAMP AT 9 AM AND RODE TO CARMACKS FOR LUNCH THEN TOOK THE ROAD TO ROSS RIVER WITH A STOP- OVER IN FARO. FARO IS THE YUPPY RESORT OF THE YUKON AND EVEN HAS A GOLF COURSE. ROSS RIVER IS A FIRST NATIONS TOWN AND IS PATHETIC AND SAD. I STOPPED BY BOTH TOWNS LAST YEAR ON MY WAY TO WATSON LAKE VIA THE CAMPBELL HWY.
I THEN TURNED SOUTH ONTO THE CANOL ROAD.
THE CANOL IS 135 MILES OF THE ROUGHEST, TOUGHEST ROAD I HAVE SEEN. IT IS VERY NARROW AND ROCKY, BIG ROCKS, SHARP ROCKS, ROUND ROCKS AND LOOSE ROCKS AND A PLETHORA OF POT HOLES. IT CLIMBS AND DESCENDS A FEW MOUNTAIN RANGES AND HAS LOTS OF CURVES.
I WOULD HAVE BEEN MORE COMFORTABLE WITH ANOTHER RIDER ALONG, FUNCTIONING REAR BRAKES AND NOT HAVING THOSE TOP HEAVY TIRES WITH ME. HOWEVER I REALLY ENJOYED THE ROAD,SCENERY AND CHALLENGE. ONE WOULD BE WELL ADVISED TO NOT RIDE THIS ROAD WITHOUT THE ABILITY TO REPAIR A PUNCTURED TIRE. MY KNOB-LESS KNOBBY’S SURVIVED THE TEST. I RODE NEARY STRAIGHT THROUGH, WITH ONLY TWO 15 MINUTE FISHING BREAKS, BEAUTIFUL STREAMS AND LAKES BUT NO FISH. I COMPLETED THE RIDE IN A TOTAL OF 3 HOURS AND 45 MINUTES INCLUDING THE BREAKS, NOT BAD FOR AN OLD MAN.
THIS IS ONE ROAD I WOULD LOVE TO RIDE AGAIN. PROBABLY NOT RECOMMENDED FOR VSTROMS, JIM, JACK AND JUAN CARLOS, NOR KLR’S BILL AND WAYNE.
I HAVE RIDDEN ALMOST 2000 MILES OF GRAVEL ROADS THIS TRIP AND THE CANOL IS THE LAST, I HAVE HAD NO FALLS, NO FLATS NOR FISH
I GOT BACK TO THE PAVEMENT TOO LATE FOR DINNER, SO WENT TO MT TENT HUNGRY AND SATISFIED.
WATSON LAKE TOMORROW FOR A TIRE CHANGE AND A BATH. I WILL THEN CONTINUE SOUTH ON THE ALASKA HWY TOWARD JASPER
I DID CALL AHEAD TO WHITEHORSE ABOUT THOSE BRAKE PADS BUT THE CLOSEST AVAILABLE WERE VANCOUVER OR EDMONTON. I WILL JUST CONTINUE ON TO MISSOULA. IN A EMERGENCY I CAN US THE MEDAL TO MEDAL REAR BRAKES. IN FACT, I DID ONCE ON THE CANOL.
MAYO HAS AN INTERESTING HISTORY, AS THE ONE TIME HUB OF THE YUKON.
IT IS A FADED FLOWER TODAY.
KENO CITY ON THE OTHER HAND IS AN AUTHENTIC RELIC OF THE REAL YUKON SMALL TOWN. KENO CITY HAS NOT BEEN REBUILT AND IS IN IT’S ORIGINAL FORM. IT COULD USE A LITTLE CARE BUT IT IS CHARMING.
THE MOST REMARKABLE THING FOR ME TODAY WAS THE CONDITION OF THE 35 MILE DIRT ROAD TO KENO. IT IS THE SMOOTHEST AND FASTEST DIRT ROAD I HAVE EVER RIDDEN.
I RODE OUT TO MAYO THEN KENO CITY AND RETURNED TO STEWART CROSSING AND CAMPING.
YES, I DID FISH TODAY AND CAUGHT AN 11 INCH GRAYLING, A FISH SIMILAR TO A TROUT BUT WITHOUT THE FIERCE FIGHT OF A TROUT.
I THREW IT UP ON THE BANK SEVERAL FEET AWAY AND WENT BACK TO CATCH ANOTHER AND IT FOUND IT’S WAY BACK TO THE WATER. GOOD FOR IT.
I DISCOVERED TODAY THAT MY REAR BRAKES ARE COMPLETELY WORN AWAY AFTER ONLY 12, 000 MILES, MY LAST DAKARS BRAKES LASTED 21,000.
GO FIGURE.
NOT SURE WHAT I SHALL DO NOW BUT MAY GO TO WHITEHORSE OR JUST CONTINUE WITHOUT THEM.
THE DAY BEGAN BEAUTIFULLY WITH CLEAR AND COOL SKIES. MY RIDE TO EAGLE PLAINS WAS FAST AND EASY WITH COOL BUT NOT COLD WEATHER AND A DRY ROAD.
I HAD A NICE LUNCH AGAIN AT EAGLE PLAINS THEN LEFT FOR THE RIDE OUT. I GOT 100 MILES OUT AND IT BEGAN TO RAIN A CONTINUOS AND STEADY LIGHT AND AT TIMES MODERATE RAIN WITH A COLD WIND, ESPECIALLY OVER THE MOUNTAIN PASSES. IT CONTINUED TO RAIN FOR THE NEXT 130 MILES BUT THE ROAD WAS STABLE AND I HAD GOOD TRACTION DUE TO THE STONEY SURFACE.
AGAIN I COVERED BOTH LEGS IN 5 HOURS EACH AND USED ONLY TANK FUEL. I HAVE BEEN PAYING NEARLY $ 7 PER GALLON FOR FUEL ON THE REMOTE ROADS.
I DID SEE 10 RIDERS GOING NORTH, ONE OF THEM, A FULL DRESS HARLEY.
ALL IN ALL A GREAT RIDING DAY. I AM SURE HAPPY, I PUT ON THOPSE DIRT TIRES. I GATHERED SO MUCH MUD, OF DIRT AND CALCIUM CHLORIDE, THAT IT BLOCKED MY RADIATOR AND OVERHEATED, I HAD TO CLEAN IT TWICE.
I DID NOT DO ANY FISHING BUT WILL START TOMORROW IN MAYO AND KENO YUKON.
THERE IS NOTHING MORE CHALLENGING AND DANGEROUS THAN RIDING BEHIND A GRADER. JUST ASK BILL.
THE RAIN HAS CAUGHT UP WITH ME AGAIN, AS IT HAS NOW BEGAN TO RAIN IN EARNEST HERE IN DAWSON CITY TONIGHT.
I LEFT KLONDIKE LODGE IN LIGHT RAIN SHOWERS, WHICH CONTINUED ALMOST ALL THE WAY TO EAGLE PLAINS. IT WAS ALSO VERY COLD.
THE ROAD WAS WET BUT I HAD GOOD TRACTION FOR THE ENTIRE WAY.
I MANAGED TO COVER THE 230 MILES IN 5 HOURS AND NEVER EXCEEDED 60 MPH, WHICH ALLOWED ME TO USE ONLY TANK FUEL. AS YOU CAN SEE THE SCENERY IS SPECTACULAR.
I HAD A LONG LUNCH AT EAGLE PLAINS AND CONTINUED ON TO INUVIK, AGAIN THE ROAD WAS WET BUT VERY RIDEABLE. I AGAIN USED ONLY TANK FUEL FOR THE 228 MILES AND ARRIVED IN 5 HOURS.
I SAW NO OTHER MOTORCYCLES TRAVELING IN EITHER DIRECTION.
I SAW ONLY 2 SHORT CONSTRUCTION AREAS, ONE WAS ONLY ABOUT 500 FT AND THE OTHER ABOUT 4 MILES, THIS IS THE ONE BILL FELL ON. MY NORTH BOUND LANE WAS ENTIRELY REPAIRED AND THEY WERE STILL WORKING ON THE WASHED OUT SOUTH LANE. BILL’S LANE
WHAT A DIFFERENCE A DAY OR TWO CAN MAKE.
ANDY WARHOL ONCE SAID THAT EVERY MAN WILL GET HIS 15 MINUTES OF FAME AND SURE ENOUGH BILL GOT HIS, WITH HIS FALL, AS EVERYONE I MET KNEW OF HIS ACCIDENT AND BROKEN RIBS.
I SHALL ENJOY A DAY HERE, ATTENDING THE 50 TH BIRTHDAY PARTY IN INUVIK.
I GOT MOST OF THE MUD OFF AND WEIGHED IN AT 760 LBS INCLUDING TIRES, FULL FUEL AND RIDER
I HAD A UNEVENTFUL RIDE FROM COLDFOOT BACK TO FAIRBANKS WHERE I CAMPED FOR THE NIGHT, BOUGHT A NEW REAR TIRE AND RODE THE NEXT DAY TO TOK. I SPENT THE NIGHT IN TOK AND TODAY RODE TO DAWSON CITY BY WAY OF CHICKEN.
AT ONE TIME CHICKEN WAS A IMPORTANT GOLD MINE, IT HAS NOW STRUCK GOLD AS A PRIME TOURIST LOCATION.
LEGEND HAS IT, THAT THE MINERS WANTED TO NAME THE TOWN, PTARMIGAN, AFTER AN ALASKAN GROUSE ABUNDANT IN THE AREA, ABOUT THE SIZE OF A SMALL CHICKEN. THEY TRIED PARMESAN , TARRAGON AND PARTAGON BUT COULD NOT AGREE ON THE SPELLING SO THEY JUST WENT WITH CHICKEN TO SAVE A GUN FIGHT.
AGAIN THE RIDE OVER THE TOP OF THE WORLD HI-WAY WAS WET, COLD AND MUDDY.
TOMORROW I WILL RIDE OUT TO INUVIK, SPEND THE NIGHT AND PROBABLY TAKE A LEISURELY RIDE OUT AND TAKE PART IN SOME FISHING ALONG THE MANY STREAMS AND RIVERS, INCLUDING THE MASSIVE MACKENZIE, CROSS YOUR FINGERS I DON’T END UP LIKE BILL.
ALASKA IS GETTING A LOT OF RAIN, UNUSUAL FOR THIS TIME OF YEAR.
GREAT NEWS FOR ME AND BAD FOR BILL, BUT IT WAS BILL, THAT BROKE HIS RIBS NOT I.
SORRY FOR ANY CONFUSION .
AFTER TRAVELING 5700 MILES FROM MY HOME TO THE ARCTIC OCEAN, I WILL BEGIN MY RETURN.
I STAYED ONLY 2 HOURS IN DEADHORSE BEFORE HEADING BACK TO COLDFOOT.
THE RAIN HAD STOPPED AND THE ROAD HAD DRIED CONSIDERABLE DUE TO THE USE OF MUCH CALCIUM CHLORIDE WHICH IS USED TO SUCK THE MOISTURE FROM THE SOIL. THE WEATHER OF THE FAR NORTH IS CONSIDERED TO BE A DESERT ACCUMULATING ONLY ABOUT 7 INCHES OF RAIN PER YEAR OR A LITTLE LESS THAN PHOENIX, SO RAIN IS WELCOME HERE.
I HAD A FASTER AND SMOOTHER RIDE AS FAR AS THE ATIGUN PASS BUT AS I STARTED DOWN THE SOUTH SIDE THE RAIN RETURNED AND MADE FOR A VERY SLURPY AND SLIPPERY RIDE FOR ABOUT 30 MILES.
SOMEHOW OR ANOTHER I MANAGED TO NOT FALL. THIS IS A GOOD THING.
I DID STOP AND ASSIST ANOTHER RIDER WITH A PUNCTURED TIRE. HE WAS RIDING A BMW R1100 RT WITH THE ORIGINAL RADIAL, LOW PROFILE , BALD TIRES, HE HAD PUNCTURED THE FRONT TIRE THE DAY BEFORE AND NOW HAD ONE ON THE REAR. HE HAD NO TIRE PUMP, NOR SENSE.
FORTUNATELY THE REPAIR WORKED BECAUSE I SAW HIM LATER THAT EVENING AT CAMP.
IT RAINED ALL NIGHT LONG AND MADE FOR A LONG SLIPPERY RIDE BACK TO FAIRBANKS.
I SHALL NOW GO BACK TO DAWSON CITY YUKON AND RIDE THE INUVIK HI-WAY, IF IT HAS RE-OPENED AFTER THE WASH-OUT. I GOT A MESSAGE FROM BILL AND HE HAS BEEN RELEASED FROM THE HOSPITAL AND IS ON HIS WAY BACK HOME.
BECAUSE I DO NOT MULTI- TASK VERY WELL, I WILL SAVE MY FISHING FOR MONTANA, ON MY WAY HOME.
TODAY, I HAD A GEORGE BUSH WEATHER DAY, RAIN AND MUD.
I LEFT COLDFOOT AT 7 AM AND DID NOT GET 20 MILES WHEN IT BEGAN TO RAIN.
JUST NORTH OF COLDFOOT IS ATIGUN PASS OF THE BROOKS MOUNTAINS RANGE AT 4700 FT.
THE ROAD WAS SMOOTH AND VERY SLIPPERY. I LEARNED TODAY THAT IF YOU KEEP YOUR SPEED DOWN TO 30 MPH OR SO, IT CAN BE MUCH EASIER AND SAFER, IMAGINE THAT, LIVE AND LEARN.
THE ENTIRE 240 MILE ROAD WAS WET DUE TO RAIN, DRIZZLE OR PREVIOUS RAIN.
THE GOOD NEWS IS THAT ONCE I CROSSED THE BROOKS RANGE, THE ROAD WAS VERY GOOD
ALLOWING TRAVEL OF AROUND 55 TO 60 MPH.
I MANAGED TO COVER THE 240 MILES IN 5 HOURS 15 MINUTES.
BY KEEPING MY SPEED TO LESS THAN 60 MPH, I WAS ABLE TO RIDE THE ENTIRE ROUTE WITHOUT USING THE 1 GALLON OF EXTRA FUEL I CARRIED.
I HAVE NEVER SEEN THIS ROAD SO WELL MANICURED AND IN SUCH GOOD SHAPE.
A HARLEY OR GOLD-WING WITH THE PROPER TIRES COULD HAVE EASILY MADE THE TRIP.
I ENJOYED IT SO MUCH I WILL NOW TURN AROUND AND RIDE BACK TO COLDFOOT, AS THERE IS NO ROOM AT THE INN.
THE DACATI 990 ABOVE WAS RIDDEN BY A YOUNG MAN FROM SEATTLE. THIS IS THE MOST UNLIKELY AND LEAST CAPABLE MOTORCYCLE TO SEE ON SUCH A ROAD, IT IS MADE FOR GOING FAST ON WELL PAVED ROADS. HE DID MANAGE TO DROP IT ON THE GRAVEL AND DO CONSIDERABLE DAMAGE. HE SEEMED TO BE ENJOYING HIMSELF. OH, TO BE YOUNG AGAIN.
40 YEARS AGO THIS DATE, I BEGAN MY AIRLINE CAREER WITH AIRWEST AIRLINES, EVENTUALLY BECOMING NORTHWEST AIRLINES.
I HAD A VERY PLEASANT DAYS RIDE TO COLDFOOT. THE WEATHER WAS WARM BUT NOT HOT AND CLEAR SKIES. THE ROAD WAS IN VERY GOOD CONDITION EXCEPT FOR ABOUT 20 MILES OF CONSTRUCTION WITH FRESH GRADED GRAVEL WHICH WAS FINE EXCEPT A WATER TRUCK HAD TURNED IT INTO A SKATING RINK. ALL I GOT WAS MUDDY.
THE DALTON IS MOSTLY PAVED EXCEPT FOR PERHAPS 40 MILES OR SO, PLUS WHATEVER CONSTRUCTION IS BEING DONE. THE DALTON HI-WAY NORTH OF HERE IS NEARLY ALL GRAVEL FOR THE 241 MILES TO DEADHORSE.
I RODE AT A CONSERVATIVE 55 TO 60 MPH. A FEW YEARS BACK RON AND I, ON THE BIG BIKES, WERE RIDING 70 TO 75. LIVE AND LEARN.
COLDFOOT CAMP IS JUST THAT A FUEL, FOOD AND REST STOP FOR THE TRUCKERS ON THE HAUL ROAD.
THE RIDE TOOK ME ABOUT 5 HOURS WITH A FEW STOPS ALONG THE WAY.
LAST YEAR THE ARCTIC CIRCLE CAMPGROUND WAS CLOSED DUE TO A WOLF, WHO HAD BEEN ATTACKING PEOPLE.
I SHALL CAMP HERE TONIGHT AND CONTINUE ONTO DEADHORSE TOMORROW.
PRUDHOE BAY OR MORE COMMONLY CALLED DEADHORSE WAS A CAMP ESTABLISHED TO SUPPORT THE OIL BOOM OF THE EARLY 1970”S.
THE DALTON HI-WAY OF COMMONLY CALLED HAUL ROAD WAS CREATED TO BUILD AND SERVICE DEADHORSE.. DOZENS OF LARGE TRUCK MAKE THE HAUL EACH DAY AND THEY ARE DANGEROUS.
I HAVE BEEN PAYING ABOUT $ 5.25 FOR FUEL ON THE HAUL ROAD.
